When you visit Rhiw Goch Inn today, you're stepping into a place where centuries of fascinating stories have unfolded. Behind the ancient stone walls and beneath the Welsh slate roof lies a tapestry of remarkable people who shaped this historic mansion through the ages. From medieval Welsh nobility to industrious farmers, each generation left their mark on what would eventually become the welcoming inn we know and love today.
Let's take a journey through time and meet the extraordinary characters who called Rhiw Goch home, each adding their own chapter to this captivating Welsh tale.
The Llwyd Dynasty: Medieval Nobility in the Welsh Hills
Our story begins with the Llwydiad Rhiwgoch (the Lloyds of Rhiw Goch), a noble Welsh family whose lineage traced back to Llywarch ap Bran of Anglesey in the twelfth century. These weren't just any ordinary landlords – they were part of one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, carrying with them the weight of ancient Celtic heritage.
Robert Llwyd: The Political Powerhouse
At the heart of Rhiw Goch's golden age was Robert Llwyd, Esquire, a man who truly understood how to wield influence in both local and national politics. This remarkable gentleman served as Member of Parliament for Merioneth not once, but multiple times – his parliamentary sessions meeting on 29 October 1586 and again on 5 April 1614.
But Robert's service to his community went far beyond Westminster. He served as Sheriff an impressive four times – in 1596, 1602, 1615, and 1625. When you consider that records show he was still alive in 1636, you're looking at a man who lived to an extraordinary age for his time, dedicating decades of his life to public service.
Imagine the conversations that must have echoed through Rhiw Goch's great hall as Robert entertained fellow politicians, local dignitaries, and perhaps even discussed the turbulent politics of the late Tudor and early Stuart periods. The stone walls that welcomed visitors then still stand today, carrying whispers of those momentous times.
Ellis Llwyd: The Last of the Male Line
Robert's eldest son, Ellis Llwyd, carried on the family tradition, living through the fifteenth year of Charles II's reign (1675). However, Ellis would prove to be a pivotal figure in Rhiw Goch's history – he was the last male heir to the estate. This wasn't uncommon in those times, but it marked a significant transition for the ancient mansion.
Jane Llwyd: The Bridge Between Dynasties
The story takes a romantic turn with Ellis's daughter, Jane Llwyd. Through her marriage to Henry Wynne, one of the younger sons of the legendary Sir John Wynne of Gwydir, the Rhiw Goch estate would pass into new hands. Jane represents that crucial link between the old Welsh nobility and the emerging gentry families who would dominate Welsh society in the following centuries.
The Wynne Connection: Uniting Great Welsh Houses
Henry Wynne brought with him the prestige of the Gwydir connection – one of the most influential families in North Wales. The Wynnes of Gwydir were renowned for their political acumen, wealth, and cultural patronage. Henry himself followed in the political footsteps of his father-in-law, representing Merionethshire in parliament during the reigns of James I and Charles I.
This union wasn't just about love (though we hope there was plenty of that!) – it was about creating powerful alliances between great Welsh houses. The couple's son became the last baronet of the Gwydir line, and through his will, the estate eventually passed to the Williams family of Llanforda, ultimately reaching Sir Watkin Williams Wynne of Wynnstay.
The architectural evidence of this period still graces Rhiw Goch today. When you enter through the ancient archway, you'll notice the stone tablet bearing the letters "M.R.LL. 1610" along with the family coat of arms. The Latin inscription "Sequere Justitiam ut Invenias Vitam" – "Follow justice and you will find life" – speaks to the moral values that guided these noble families.
John Garnons: The Legal Eagle of Rhiw Goch
Enter John Garnons, Esquire, a fascinating character who transformed Rhiw Goch into something approaching a legal headquarters for the region. The letters "J.G. 1700" carved into the stone staircase mark his tenure, and what a tenure it was!
Garnons was no ordinary country solicitor. He was a man of considerable standing – High Sheriff of Caernarfon and Justice of the Peace for Merioneth. The large room beside the stone staircase became legendary as a place where "many a quarrel was brought to a peaceful conclusion." Picture the scene: heated disputes over land, inheritance, or business matters being resolved through Garnons' skilled mediation, often sealed with one of the many feasts held in that very room.
A Man of Innovation and Influence
John Garnons wasn't just about legal matters – he was a true innovator. He's credited with introducing the first wheeled vehicle to the parish, a revolutionary development that must have caused quite a stir among the locals! He also generously donated the church bell and tower in its present form, leaving a lasting mark on the community's spiritual life.
The front of Rhiw Goch housed his extensive legal practice, with two large rooms serving as offices buzzing with "a large number of clerks." Imagine the paperwork, the consultations, the business dealings that flowed through those rooms – Garnons was clearly running a substantial operation that served clients across Merioneth and Caernarfonshire.
Such was Garnons' prominence that a portrait of him hung in Caernarfon Town Hall, a testament to his significant role in regional affairs.
The Pugh Family: From Gentry to Farming Excellence
As the 19th century progressed, Rhiw Goch transitioned from its role as a legal and political centre to become the heart of an impressive farming operation under the Pugh family. At the beginning of the 20th century, Robert Pugh transformed the estate into a model of agricultural efficiency.
Robert wasn't your average farmer – he was what locals described as "a very efficient farmer" who managed the entire area where the present Holiday Village now stands, plus extensive lands on the lower side of the A470. His operation was substantial enough to employ numerous staff, and he became a central figure in the local agricultural community.
The Rhythm of Rural Life
One of the most charming traditions associated with Robert Pugh was his annual haymaking ritual. Every year, at the beginning of haymaking season in the Traws village, he would hire twelve experienced men to cut all the hay with scythes. Can you imagine the sight – twelve skilled workers moving in harmony across the Welsh fields, their scythes glinting in the summer sun?
Griffith Pugh: The Entrepreneurial Son
Robert's son Griffith Pugh represents the entrepreneurial spirit that has always characterised the people of Rhiw Goch. Robert sent Griffith to Oswestry in Shropshire as an apprentice carpenter and wheelwright – an investment in his son's future that would pay dividends for the entire community.
After completing his apprenticeship, Griffith returned to open a business in Trawsfynydd. But his most remarkable achievement came in the late 1920s when he purchased an oil engine, generator, and batteries to supply the village with electricity, including street lights! This private electricity supply continued until 1956 when M.A.N.W.E.B. (Merseyside and North Wales Electricity Board) finally extended their services to the area.
Imagine being among the first Welsh villages to have electric lighting, all thanks to the initiative of a local carpenter whose family had called Rhiw Goch home!
The Military Era: A New Chapter Begins
The year 1904 marked another significant transition in Rhiw Goch's long history. The Royal Artillery arrived in the area, initially camping under canvas on the Bryn Golau fields near the village. What started as temporary military exercises soon became a permanent presence when the War Office purchased the Rhiw Goch farm to build extensive military camps.
The mansion itself was taken over by the military, though it had fallen into a rather dilapidated state by this time. However, the War Office invested significantly in restoration, transforming the ancient building into an Officers' Mess. For over fifty years, from 1904 to 1956, the halls that had once echoed with parliamentary debates and legal consultations now rang with military discussions and officers' social gatherings.
The Architectural Legacy: Stories in Stone
Throughout all these changes of ownership and purpose, the architectural features of Rhiw Goch continued to tell their stories. The great hall, panelled and decorated with carvings and imaginative heraldry drawings, speaks to the artistic sensibilities of its former inhabitants. The main bedroom features the Prince of Wales feathers with the letters H.P. (Henricus Princeps), flanked by the rose and thistle – symbols connecting the house to the broader story of British royalty and identity.
The Ladies Room adjoining contains lowland reeds and imaginative scriptural drawings, suggesting the important role that faith and nature played in the lives of Rhiw Goch's residents. These artistic touches weren't just decoration – they were statements about values, beliefs, and connections to the wider world.
A Living Legacy at Rhiw Goch Inn Today
Today, as you settle into the comfort of Rhiw Goch Inn, you're not just staying in historic accommodation – you're becoming part of an ongoing story that spans nearly a millennium. From medieval Welsh nobles to innovative farmers, from legal eagles to military officers, each generation has contributed to the rich tapestry of this remarkable place.
The ancient stones still stand, the Welsh mountains still frame the horizon, and the spirit of hospitality that made Rhiw Goch famous in centuries past continues to welcome visitors from around the world. When you walk through those historic doorways, you're following in the footsteps of parliamentarians and farmers, lawyers and craftsmen, all of whom understood that Rhiw Goch was more than just a building – it was a home where history was made, one story at a time.
Come and add your own chapter to the Rhiw Goch story. The ancient walls are ready to welcome you, just as they've welcomed travellers for centuries past.