Let’s be honest for a second. If you’ve been anywhere near Llanberis on a sunny Saturday in July, you know exactly what I’m talking about. It’s not so much a mountain hike as it is a slow-motion queue for a post office that happens to be 3,560 feet in the air.
I was chatting with Leticia earlier today: she’s the boss here at Rhiw Goch Inn: and we were laughing about the photos of the "summit queue" making the rounds on social media. People waiting forty minutes just to touch a brass plaque? Not for me, thanks. Especially not this week. With the International Snowdon Race (Ras Rhyngwladol yr Wyddfa) kicking off on Saturday, 18th July 2026, Llanberis is basically going to be the centre of the running universe. If you like crowds and the smell of deep-heat, go for it.
But if you’re like me and you come to North Wales for the silence, the space, and the feeling that you’re the only person on the planet, you need to look elsewhere. Specifically, you need to look out of the windows of our Lodge House here in Bronaber (LL41 4YW).
I’ve spent years wandering these hills, and I’ve picked out three "empty" mountain walks that I genuinely believe offer better views than Snowdon. Best of all? They are all within a short drive of Trawsfynydd and the Rhiw Goch Inn.
1. Rhinog Fawr: The "Badlands" of Wales
If Snowdon is a manicured park, the Rhinogydd are the Wild West. This range is literally on our doorstep. From the campsite here at Rhiw Goch, you can see the jagged silhouette of these mountains every evening.
Rhinog Fawr isn't the highest peak in the park, but it is one of the toughest and most rewarding. The terrain is ancient: Gritstone, heather, and hidden "stairs" built by Roman soldiers (or so the legend goes).
- The Route: Start from the Roman Steps at Cwm Bychan (near Harlech) or take the wilder approach from the Trawsfynydd side.
- The View: From the top, you get a 360-degree panorama that includes the entire Llyn Peninsula, the sweep of Cardigan Bay, and a perfect side-on view of the Snowdon massif.
- The Crowd Factor: On a busy July day, you might see… four people? Maybe a few feral goats. It’s glorious.
2. Arenig Fawr: The Lonely Giant
Driving east from Trawsfynydd (LL41 4UY) toward Bala, you’ll see a massive, broad-shouldered mountain sitting all by itself. That’s Arenig Fawr. It’s a "proper" mountain: remote, imposing, and surprisingly easy to get to from the A4212.
I love this walk because it feels like you’ve discovered a secret. You park up near the quarry, walk past the crystal-clear Llyn Arenig Fawr, and then head up the ridge.
- The Route: A circular loop from the car park near Llyn Arenig Fawr. It’s about 7-8 miles and takes around 4-5 hours.
- The View: Because Arenig stands alone, there’s nothing to block your view. You can see across to the Arans, the Berwyns, and north to the Glyderau.
- Peter’s Pro Tip: Take a flask of coffee and sit by the memorial at the summit. It’s dedicated to the crew of a B-17 Flying Fortress that crashed there in 1943. It’s a poignant spot with a view that stretches forever.
3. Aran Fawddwy: Snowdon’s Quiet Rival
Most people head to Cadair Idris if they want a big day out south of Snowdon. Don’t get me wrong, Cadair is stunning, but in July? It’s busy. Instead, head to Cwm Cywarch and climb Aran Fawddwy.
It’s actually the highest point in the UK south of Snowdon, but because it’s tucked away, it gets a fraction of the footfall. The ridge walk between Aran Fawddwy and Aran Benllyn is, in my humble opinion, the best ridge walk in Wales that doesn't require a rope.
- The Route: Start at the car park in Cwm Cywarch (near Dinas Mawddwy). It’s a steep start, but once you’re on the ridge, you’re flying.
- The View: You look straight down into the "crater" of Creiglyn Dyfi, the source of the River Dyfi. It’s prehistoric and breathtaking.
- The Crowd Factor: You’re more likely to see a Red Kite than a person.
Refuelling: Where to Eat Near LL41 4UY
After a day of pretending you're the last person on earth, you’re going to be starving. Since we’re still hard at work renovating the main 16th-century tavern here at Rhiw Goch Inn (it’s going to be spectacular, wait until you see the games room!), I usually point our guests toward a few local gems.
The Grapes Hotel, Maentwrog (LL41 4HN)
This is a proper historic coaching inn, just about a 10-minute drive from us. They’ve been serving weary travellers since the 17th century, and they know what they’re doing.
- What to order: I’m a sucker for their Liver, Bacon, and Onions with mash. It’s the ultimate "post-hike" fuel. They also do a mean Grapes’ Sausage and Mash using local Welsh pork.
- The Vibe: Low ceilings, real ale (check out the Purple Moose from Porthmadog), and a roaring fire if the Welsh weather decides to be "atmospheric."
Dylanwad, Dolgellau (LL40 1AB)
If you’re heading back from the Arans, stop in Dolgellau. Dylanwad is a wine merchant and cafe that does incredible tapas-style plates and local cheeses. It’s a bit more refined if you’ve managed to change out of your muddy boots.
Coming Home to Rhiw Goch Inn
One of the best things about staying with us in Bronaber is the transition from the wild mountains to total luxury. We’ve designed our holiday accommodation to be the perfect base for outdoor enthusiasts.
If you’re staying in The Lodge House, you’ve got underfloor heating to thaw out your toes and a luxury cast iron bath that is basically a religious experience after 10 miles in the Rhinogydd. If it’s just the two of you, The Hideaway is a cozy little nest with views of the sunset that will make you forget Snowdon even exists.
And for the purists? Our campsite has five electric pitches and plenty of space for tents. There is nothing quite like sitting outside your tent with a beer, watching the sun dip behind the mountains you just climbed.
Local Events to Watch Out For (July 2026)
While you’re here for your holiday in North Wales, keep an eye on these dates:
- July 11th-12th, 2026: The Snowdonia Trail Marathon. Expect the roads around Llanberis and Beddgelert to be busy. A perfect weekend to hide in the Rhinogydd!
- July 18th, 2026: The International Snowdon Race. As I mentioned, Llanberis will be packed. Stay south, stay quiet, and stay at Rhiw Goch!
Ready to escape the queues?
We’d love to have you. Whether you’re a hiker, a mountain biker heading to Coed y Brenin (just 10 minutes down the road!), or just someone who needs a break from the city, we’ve got a spot for you.
Check our availability and book your next Snowdonia adventure at www.rhiwgochinn.co.uk.
See you on the hills (but hopefully not too many of you at once!),
Peter Dive
Rhiw Goch Inn
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