Listen, I love Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa) as much as the next guy. It’s the highest point in Wales, it’s iconic, and it’s a genuine rite of passage for anyone visiting our neck of the woods. But let’s be real for a second. Have you seen the TikToks lately?
It’s July 10th. The sun is (mostly) out, the kids are nearly off school, and right now, there is a literal queue at the summit of Snowdon. People are standing in line for forty-five minutes just to tap a brass cairn and take a selfie. If I wanted to stand in a queue that long, I’d go to the Post Office in Trawsfynydd on pension day: and at least there, I’d get a chat with Mrs. Jones about the price of milk.
When you’re staying with us at Rhiw Goch Inn, you’re right in the thick of Snowdonia National Park (or Eryri, as we locals call it). You’ve got direct access to the heavy hitters, sure, but if you’re like me and prefer your mountain air without a side order of a hundred strangers’ conversations, you need to look elsewhere.
People on Reddit are constantly asking: "Where can I hike in Snowdonia without the crowds?" and "Is Snowdon worth it in the summer?" My honest answer? Snowdon is great for the 'gram, but if you want the soul of Wales, you need to head to the peaks that the tourist buses overlook.
Here are three "empty" mountain walks that I personally think beat Snowdon hands down: all within a short hop from our front door in Bronaber.
1. The Rhinogydd: The 'Wild West' of Wales
If you’re staying at our campsite or in The Lodge House, look out the window. Those rugged, rocky, slightly intimidating hills to the west? That’s the Rhinogydd.
The Rhinogydd range is legendary among serious hikers for being some of the toughest, roughest terrain in the UK. But don't let that scare you off. While most people are battling for a parking spot at Pen-y-Pass, you can drive five minutes down the A470 from LL41 4UY, turn off towards the Crawcwellt valley, and find yourself in a landscape that looks like it hasn't changed since the 12th century.
- The View: On a clear day from Rhinog Fawr, you can see the entire Snowdonia range to the north, Cadair Idris to the south, and the Irish Sea glittering to the west.
- The Vibe: Total solitude. You’re more likely to see a wild mountain goat than another human.
- Pro Tip: If you want a "taster," try the Roman Steps from Llyn Cwm Bychan. It’s an ancient stone path through a dramatic pass. It’s steep, but it feels like walking through a fantasy novel.
2. Arenig Fawr: The Forgotten Giant
Just a short drive east from Trawsfynydd sits Arenig Fawr. It’s a massive, pudding-shaped mountain that completely dominates the skyline, yet somehow, it’s often overlooked.
I remember hiking this last summer. I spent six hours on the hill and saw exactly two people and one very confused sheep. The beauty of Arenig Fawr is that it stands slightly apart from the main mountain massifs, meaning the view of the rest of Snowdonia is unparalleled. You get to see the scale of the park in a way you just can’t when you’re standing on the peaks themselves.
- The Walk: Start near Llyn Arenig Fawr. There’s a lovely little bothy (a basic mountain shelter) halfway up that’s perfect for a lunch break if the Welsh weather decides to do its thing.
- The Reward: The summit has a memorial to a B-17 Flying Fortress that crashed there in WWII: it’s a poignant, quiet spot with 360-degree views that will take your breath away.
3. Moel Siabod: The Best View of Snowdon
If you’ve been searching Reddit for "best mountain walks North Wales," you’ve probably seen Moel Siabod mentioned in the comments by people who actually know their stuff.
Moel Siabod stands alone near Capel Curig (about a 25-minute drive from us). Because it’s isolated from the other peaks, the view from the top is arguably the best in the park. Why? Because you’re looking directly across at the Snowdon Horseshoe. You get to see the mountain everyone else is queuing on, in all its glory, while you’re sitting in peace with a flask of tea.
- The Route: For the adventurous, the Daear Ddu ridge is a fantastic "scramble" (hiking with your hands a bit). It’s not as scary as Crib Goch, but it’ll definitely get your heart racing.
- Why I love it: It feels like a proper "big" mountain day, but you’re back down in time to grab a pint and head back to the Inn before the sunset hits the terrace.
Where to Base Your Snowdonia Adventure
If you’re planning a Snowdon holiday or looking for the perfect holiday Wales base, you’ve got to stay somewhere that understands the land.
At Rhiw Goch Inn, we’re right in the middle of it all. Whether you’re a hardcore hiker or a family just wanting some fresh air and a bit of history, we’ve spent the last few years renovating this place to make it the ultimate retreat.
- The Lodge House: Perfect for families. It’s got underfloor heating (essential for drying out those hiking boots!), a luxury cast iron bath for soaking tired legs, and it sleeps up to six.
- The Hideaway Bed: My personal favourite for couples. It’s cozy, modern, and has views of the Rhinogydd sunsets that I honestly never get tired of looking at.
- Our Campsite: We’ve got five electric pitches and plenty of space for tents. There’s something special about waking up in Bronaber, hearing nothing but the birds, and knowing you’ve got the best mountain walks in the country right on your doorstep.
We’re currently working hard on the main 16th-century Inn building: restoring it after the fire has been a labor of love (and a lot of sawdust). Soon, we’ll have the tavern back up and running, but for now, our self-catering apartments and campsite are open and ready for your summer escape.
Answering Your FAQs (The Reddit Round-up)
Q: "Is it worth climbing Snowdon in July?"
Peter says: If it’s on your bucket list, do it. But start at 4:00 AM. If you want a peaceful mountain experience, pick one of the three above instead.
Q: "Where can I stay that’s close to mountain biking and hiking?"
Peter says: We’re perfectly positioned at LL41 4UY. You’ve got the mountains right here, and Coed y Brenin Forest Park is just a few miles down the road for some of the best mountain biking in the UK.
Q: "What’s the best pub for after a hike?"
Peter says: While our tavern is under renovation, there are some crackers nearby in Trawsfynydd and Dolgellau. Stay tuned, because the Rhiw Goch tavern is going to be the place to be very soon!
Ready to escape the crowds?
Don't follow the herds to the same old crowded peaks. Come and see the real Snowdonia. Whether you're pitching a tent or booking a stay in our Snowdonia Lodge, we’d love to welcome you to Rhiw Goch.
Book your stay now at www.rhiwgochinn.co.uk
See you on the hills!
: Peter Dive
Rhiw Goch Inn
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